Ethiopia's Unique Coffee Culture Blinds The Society Together

Samuel Seyoum, CTC (September 28, 2023)

October 1st is International Coffee Day which is preceded by National Coffee Day in the U.S. on September 29th. Around 50% of Americans are categorized as coffee drinkers. Wisevoter estimates their world-leading consumption at 26,651,000 bags a year (each bag weighs 60kgs). Some of these bags are imported from Ethiopia.

The word coffee is believed to have come from Kaffa (the former Ethiopian province) where it was first discovered accidentally by a goat keeper named Kaldi. In Ethiopia, coffee (known as BUNA in Amharic, the country’s official language) is more than a beverage. And, it can’t be taken out, rushed or drunk cold. It has to be savored steaming hot with friends and family.

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ETHIOPIA’S COFFEE CULTURE

As the number one export product, coffee plays a major role in the country’s economy. Ethiopia is the largest exporter of coffee in Africa and the ninth in the world. Millions earn their living in the coffee industry.

Coffee plays a very pivotal role in the society culturally too. In areas where most women stay home to take care of the family and handle a variety of duties, they regularly host, on a rotating basis, their friends in the immediate neighborhood for a coffee get together. This centuries old daily coffee ritual is usually held later in the morning. In anticipation of the ceremony, fresh cut grass with long blades is thrown on the floor. Invitees start to arrive and take seats in a semicircular formation facing the maître d’. Incense burns from the corner and its light smoke rises gently. The room is enveloped by fragrant aroma and an aura of anticipation.

SHOWTIME

The guests have taken their seats—usually on Bermucha (three legged low wooden stool). It is now show time! A younger girl performs the maître d’ duties (in rare cases the “first lady” of the house takes this responsibility herself). She washes the coffee beans and gives them a few minutes to dry. Then, the beans are roasted in an open pan over a Midija (small movable fire place). At the peak of roasting, the beans turn glisteningly brown. At this point, the pan with its content is moved around for the guests to enjoy the aroma up close. They take a brief time out from their conversation and inhale. They express their appreciation. As conversations continue and anticipation builds, the blend of a trio of fine scents: burning incense, roasted coffee and fresh cut grass combine to give the room special aroma which could be the envy of perfumers in Grasse, France. Some hosts even up the ante by burning sandalwood sticks—a fourth piece of the puzzle.

The roasted beans are then ground in a Mukecha using Zenezena (pestle and mortar). When the boiling water in a Jebena (kettle made from clay) makes a hissing sound announcing its readiness to welcome the ground coffee, the maître d’ complies.

About fifteen minutes later when she determines the brew is ready, she removes the Jebena from the fire and gives the brew a couple of minutes to settle.Then the coffee is poured into each sini (a small cup without a handle typical to Ethiopia and some Middle Eastern countries). As the guests pick up and sip the coffee from their respective cups they congratulate the maître d’ on an excellent job—a courtesy visitors learn fast.

The roasted beans are then ground in a Mukecha using Zenezena (pestle and mortar). When the boiling water in a Jebena (kettle made from clay) makes a hissing sound announcing its readiness to welcome the ground coffee, the maître d’ complies.

About fifteen minutes later when she determines the brew is ready, she removes the Jebena from the fire and gives the brew a couple of minutes to settle. Then the coffee is poured into each sini (a small cup without a handle typical to Ethiopia and some Middle Eastern countries). As the guests pick up and sip the coffee from their respective cups they congratulate the maître d’ on an excellent job—a courtesy visitors learn fast.

SNACK

Ambasha (homemade bread) or roasted or boiled grains such as popcorn (chickpeas are my favorite) are passed around. Some serve Anebabero, an Ethiopian version of Pizza (layered with a mix of clarified butter and pepper) or Dabo Kolo (pea size tasty pretzel-like bread).
The gathering continues to catch up with what is happening in their lives. After all, this is a by-invitation-only meeting of close knit friends. And, what is friendship without a little bit of spilling the beans? Consider it a “social media in person” that has been going on for centuries before today’s social media took all the lime light. After every guest enjoys the first cup (Abol), a second serving (Huletegna or Tona) which is slightly less potent follows. Some accept a third serving (Sostegna or Bereka) which is lighter from the earlier versions because the same brewed coffee is reheated with more water and could have become diluted.

SPILLING THE BEANS

THE ROAD AHEAD

In some places the lines formed by the sediments of the coffee in each cup are analyzed for clues of things to come. Some elderly women are acknowledged as gifted in this “reading of the leaves”. A marriage in the family? A whirlwind of fortune? Resolution of conflicts? The list goes on… I am sure the religious purists lend a blind eye to such practices that are anyway waning.

TOPPINGS

Ethiopia’s Arabica coffee is smooth and without bitterness. It is meant to be enjoyed pure. However, some dip a Tena Adam (Ruta Chalepensis) mini branch to further enhance the aroma. The plant is credited for flowering in almost every month. Others add sugar, milk or honey to sweeten it. Salt and even clarified butter, depending on the region and individual taste, are also favorite toppings.

MACHINE BREWED COFFEE

Several Ethiopian cities are also famous for brewing coffee with espresso machines like La Cimbali imported mostly from Italy. Macchiato served in a small glass is the most popular choice. The Ethiopian Macchiato is less strong than its western siblings as it has milk rather than foam. But the option to make it darker or even lighter exists at the time of ordering.

KAFFEKLATSCH

Coffee is more than a beverage in Ethiopian cafés too. Friends meet at cafés to discuss life, finalize business deals, catchup with what is going on or in the past read newspapers. Piazza, the city center, is famous for the concentration of cafés of yesteryears: King George Bar was the king of cafés. Walking towards Arat Kilo you will find a popular café known as Tea Room. To the south of Piazza Enrico was the choice spot for many with sweet tooth. I used to frequent Rendez Vous at the New Post Office Building.

Coffee plays a very pivotal role in the society culturally too. In areas where most women stay home to take care of the family and handle a variety of duties, they regularly host, on a rotating basis, their friends in the immediate neighborhood for a coffee get together. This centuries old daily coffee ritual is usually held later in the morning. In anticipation of the ceremony, fresh cut grass with long blades is thrown on the floor. Invitees start to arrive and take seats in a semicircular formation facing the maître d’. Incense burns from the corner and its light smoke rises gently. The room is enveloped by fragrant aroma and an aura of anticipation.

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BEYOND ETHIOPIA’S BORDERS

I haven’t come across any Starbucks store in Addis Ababa but the chain serves Ethiopian coffee in many countries. Ethiopia’s Arabica coffee is also a favorite of many other specialty coffee shops around the world including Truth Coffee Roasters in Cape Town--the best café in the world in 2016 according to The Telegraph.

THROWING WATER ON COLD BREW

For reasons explained above, take-out coffee is uncommon in Ethiopia. Equally unusual is ordering iced coffee. There is an Ethiopian saying which roughly translates “Coffee is best enjoyed while steaming hot.” Decaf? Not common either.

BEYOND ETHIOPIA’S BORDERS

I haven’t come across any Starbucks store in Addis Ababa but the chain serves Ethiopian coffee in many countries. Ethiopia’s Arabica coffee is also a favorite of many other specialty coffee shops around the world including Truth Coffee Roasters in Cape Town--the best café in the world in 2016 according to The Telegraph.

THROWING WATER ON COLD BREW

For reasons explained above, take-out coffee is uncommon in Ethiopia. Equally unusual is ordering iced coffee. There is an Ethiopian saying which roughly translates “Coffee is best enjoyed while steaming hot.” Decaf? Not common either.

THE PRICE OF SILVER FOR A SERVING OF GOLD—BLACK GOLD

Coffee is known as black gold or brown gold. In Ethiopia, this type of gold, is marketed at the price of silver. Unless you go to one of the high end hotels or upscale cafés, a glass of macchiato costs the equivalent of 1 USD. Compare this to about 5 USD in New York.

Whatever you pay for your cup of coffee and wherever you are having it, enjoy your fix. And, Happy National Coffee Day and Happy International Coffee Day in advance. Melkam Buna as Ethiopians say in Amharic!